Hi All;
Warmer weather will eventually come I was try to get ready for that heavy and slow snow when moving gets hard.
Went to Hoiggards and came back with some wax but it requires a complex procedure involving a hot.
I am not ready to go that far. Any advice from wise and experienced.
What a weekend. Don't mind if spring is on hold. Will just get off skis and go to SPI in April (looks like people ale over the calendar this time around).
Aga
Ski/ snowboard wax
Moderator: MK
Re: Ski/ snowboard wax
Local company: http://www.skifastwax.com/
http://www.skifastwax.com/snowboard-wax ... -hsp40-60g
They have a variety of paste waxes that do not require an iron/scraping. Buff in and ride.
http://www.skifastwax.com/snowboard-wax ... -hsp40-60g
They have a variety of paste waxes that do not require an iron/scraping. Buff in and ride.
Re: Ski/ snowboard wax
I bought a cheap iron that I use for waxing my own skis and board (and my kid's gear). It is really easy to do especially if you make a jig to hold skis and boards so the bindings are not in the way. The best part is I can switch waxes depending on conditions in about 15 minutes in my workshop. Now mind you I rarely do that, but I *could* if I wanted.
Re: Ski/ snowboard wax
If you are going to iron on and want to stay away from Fluoro, then Hertel "Super Hot Sauce" is the fastest. It actually is all temp too. The max temp rating is like 38 or 42 degrees and a min rating of 6 degrees on this stuff. It is cheap too. But it beats any other hydrocarbon wax out there. The biggest bonus of non-Fluoro's is that you do not have to worry about killing your parakeet if you iron it in the same room with him.
Super Hot Sauce has a softer base wax that seems to melts at a bit lower temp than OBJ, Dakine, or RaceWax. So while it's glide is really good in cold snow (experience has told me it is slick down to -5degrees), I have been coloring on some Dakine "Cold" hydrocarbon wax first. I then drip on the Super Hot Sauce and iron the two together. I am guessing this makes it a bit more durable, but you are going to get edge burn if you kite for more than 2 hours on terrain anyway.
I don't use Fluoro's so I have no experience there. But I would only use them if I was desperate to have a base wax that is the absolute fastest/longest lasting and was willing to have someone else do the job.
Hertel has got a pretty good propaganda article on their web page in PDF format. It is worth the read. From my experience with it and other hydrocarbon waxes, I don't see any holes in it though it seems to contain a little bit of boasting.
.pdf by email
http://www.hertelskiwax.com/MailingList_subscribe.asp
Super Hot Sauce has a softer base wax that seems to melts at a bit lower temp than OBJ, Dakine, or RaceWax. So while it's glide is really good in cold snow (experience has told me it is slick down to -5degrees), I have been coloring on some Dakine "Cold" hydrocarbon wax first. I then drip on the Super Hot Sauce and iron the two together. I am guessing this makes it a bit more durable, but you are going to get edge burn if you kite for more than 2 hours on terrain anyway.
I don't use Fluoro's so I have no experience there. But I would only use them if I was desperate to have a base wax that is the absolute fastest/longest lasting and was willing to have someone else do the job.
Hertel has got a pretty good propaganda article on their web page in PDF format. It is worth the read. From my experience with it and other hydrocarbon waxes, I don't see any holes in it though it seems to contain a little bit of boasting.
.pdf by email
http://www.hertelskiwax.com/MailingList_subscribe.asp