Is there any repair tape or anything you can apply to the canopy of a kite? I have 2 super small tears about 1/4 inch long on my 16M Waroo.
Sail tape or anything? Is it safe to fly or will that just make it worse? Any local repair places?
thanks for any info.
Mike N
Question--repair on a small tear on the canopy of my kite
Moderator: MK
-
WildBill
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2002 11:21 am
- Location: Spring Lake on the south end of Prior Lake
Hey Mike, welcome back. As I recently learned:
* Dacron tape for leading edge repairs.
* Ripstop tape for canopy repairs; tape on both sides; about $10/15' roll
* Found it somewhere on the web for $7.50.
* Seamseal or such on any stitching that was cut or loose; $8/1oz
There was a post about using ducktape as a last resort but take off right away after use; better than risking a larger tear.
* Dacron tape for leading edge repairs.
* Ripstop tape for canopy repairs; tape on both sides; about $10/15' roll
* Found it somewhere on the web for $7.50.
* Seamseal or such on any stitching that was cut or loose; $8/1oz
There was a post about using ducktape as a last resort but take off right away after use; better than risking a larger tear.
ENJOY 
........... Bill
........... BillThanks for the great info guys!
OBX (Outer Banks/Hatteras) was a great time! Whooooo ha.
I also learned out there how to replace a strut bladder and patch one also.
Word to the wise, make sure you keep all the sand and water out of the your bladders. If it is sandy, you may want to close the valve once the air is out before you roll it up to keep it clean (open them baack up to air out later at home).
If you blow a bladder in the ocean, (and even around here I imagine), rinse it out to get all the salt crystals and sand out of it and then dry it out. Once it is dry, patch the leak and carefully place the bladder back in the strut by using one of your kite lines tied loosely around the vavle to pull it back into the kite (hence tie the lark's heard around the valve loosely before removing it).
Once the repaired bladder is back in, pump it up SLOWLY and make sure the bladder is inflating evenly all the way back to the main strut (as it tends to get crumpled around the valve area). You may have to inflate and deflate it a few times to get it right. If it gets pinched around the valve area it may blow out there.
I had to find this out the hard way and blew 2 strut bladders, so hopefully this will save you some hassle and keep you on the water.
Mike N
OBX (Outer Banks/Hatteras) was a great time! Whooooo ha.
I also learned out there how to replace a strut bladder and patch one also.
Word to the wise, make sure you keep all the sand and water out of the your bladders. If it is sandy, you may want to close the valve once the air is out before you roll it up to keep it clean (open them baack up to air out later at home).
If you blow a bladder in the ocean, (and even around here I imagine), rinse it out to get all the salt crystals and sand out of it and then dry it out. Once it is dry, patch the leak and carefully place the bladder back in the strut by using one of your kite lines tied loosely around the vavle to pull it back into the kite (hence tie the lark's heard around the valve loosely before removing it).
Once the repaired bladder is back in, pump it up SLOWLY and make sure the bladder is inflating evenly all the way back to the main strut (as it tends to get crumpled around the valve area). You may have to inflate and deflate it a few times to get it right. If it gets pinched around the valve area it may blow out there.
I had to find this out the hard way and blew 2 strut bladders, so hopefully this will save you some hassle and keep you on the water.
Mike N
) carries spinnaker (sail) tape. I do plenty of business with them, they are great guys and gals.