I'm new to kiteboarding and have always used my skis but was thinking about getting a snowboard. I'm gonna take a couple lessons to learn how and was wondering if you use the same length for kiteboarding as well or do you go up or down in length a bit. The other thing is how do most like the bindings mounted? In a neutral stance or more toward regular or goofy foot?
Thanks
Jude
Snowboard size
Moderator: MK
Re: Snowboard size
My experience:
Being 220lbs around 5’-10”, I have the perspective of a heavy weight rider with regards to boards. And if you intend to take my advice as gospel truth, don’t. My experience is somewhat limited to one board, the 5150 “Stroke” or Morrow “RV” (same board) in the 164cm size. I have these boards in both rockered and cambered and have used these almost exclusively since I started snowkiting. These boards are either perfect for me, or, I have adapted my style to fit their shortcomings. Either way, I love these boards and I really do not want any other board.
Used boards are a great way to get into kiting. Don’t buy anything fancy or expensive. Just get a board that is already tired but can still have the edges and base serviced, set the bindings in “duck” stance and as close to centered as possible. Your stance width (distance between your feet) should be set to be comfortable on the hill rather than with a kite. Most people say you need a twin board with “twin tips” and “twin flex”, but used directional boards are fine to get you started snowkiting. Just remember, a centered duck stance setting on a directional board may feel “kind of funny” on the hill so be careful.
When you are looking into buying an ideal snowkiting board, having “twin tip” and “twin flex” are important. This will allow you to ride in both directions with the same feel. Also, since snowkitiers tend to destroy their heel side edge only, you can reverse your bindings so the old toe side edge is now the new heel side edge. This effectively doubles the life of a kitesnowboard. With any board you buy new, make sure you can use it on the ski hill too. This means that the board should be adequately sized for you. Right now, the common wisdom is to size the board to your weight. Do this by looking up size charts and matching your weight range to the board length. You can usually get away with 1 board size too small or 1 size too large. But for those of us with a mens size 11US or larger boot, you will want to go with a “wide board” while kiting so as to minimize heel and toe drag.
Some snowkiters believe that you should size down your board from the charts reccomendation. My personal theory on getting a “one size too small” board is that it will be great for compacted surfaces. Since the kite is pulling up on you, you actually weigh less – or put less weight on the board while kiting than when on the hill. This will prevent you from sinking all of your weight into the edge, thus making a large board feel even bigger and harder to control.
Personal experience has shown me that the above is not really an issue, at least not for me. At 220lbs, I have never had a problem with edge hook up even on rough ice. My theory for my boards being adequately sized/over sized is that conditions while snowkiting often dictate “oversized” as a necessity. Deep snow is much more common in snowkiting than almost any other type of snowboarding except exclusive back county snowboarding. Though you will have many packed/icy days while snowkiting, you will encounter the deep and soft stuff somewhere on almost every snowkite outing. If you encounter this with too small of a board for your weight in too light of wind, you will get stuck. You may even find yourself avoiding anything soft with a small board. A larger board will let you get through powder much more easily. Once you start jumping, you will want to be comfortable in the soft stuff because it IS the best place to land, regardless of whether it is a good or bad landing.
Up sizing the board also has an advantage in that you can typically gain a higher sidecut radius. This should make the board more comfortable to ride in a straight line as the edge will be straighter. On the hill this will mean you cannot carve as tight a radius with a “set” edge. But a bigger radius will be faster and should give you more excitement on the hill, much like an alpine board.
For the binding argument, see:
http://www.lakawa.com/lakawa-chat-f1/wh ... 14089.html
Being 220lbs around 5’-10”, I have the perspective of a heavy weight rider with regards to boards. And if you intend to take my advice as gospel truth, don’t. My experience is somewhat limited to one board, the 5150 “Stroke” or Morrow “RV” (same board) in the 164cm size. I have these boards in both rockered and cambered and have used these almost exclusively since I started snowkiting. These boards are either perfect for me, or, I have adapted my style to fit their shortcomings. Either way, I love these boards and I really do not want any other board.
Used boards are a great way to get into kiting. Don’t buy anything fancy or expensive. Just get a board that is already tired but can still have the edges and base serviced, set the bindings in “duck” stance and as close to centered as possible. Your stance width (distance between your feet) should be set to be comfortable on the hill rather than with a kite. Most people say you need a twin board with “twin tips” and “twin flex”, but used directional boards are fine to get you started snowkiting. Just remember, a centered duck stance setting on a directional board may feel “kind of funny” on the hill so be careful.
When you are looking into buying an ideal snowkiting board, having “twin tip” and “twin flex” are important. This will allow you to ride in both directions with the same feel. Also, since snowkitiers tend to destroy their heel side edge only, you can reverse your bindings so the old toe side edge is now the new heel side edge. This effectively doubles the life of a kitesnowboard. With any board you buy new, make sure you can use it on the ski hill too. This means that the board should be adequately sized for you. Right now, the common wisdom is to size the board to your weight. Do this by looking up size charts and matching your weight range to the board length. You can usually get away with 1 board size too small or 1 size too large. But for those of us with a mens size 11US or larger boot, you will want to go with a “wide board” while kiting so as to minimize heel and toe drag.
Some snowkiters believe that you should size down your board from the charts reccomendation. My personal theory on getting a “one size too small” board is that it will be great for compacted surfaces. Since the kite is pulling up on you, you actually weigh less – or put less weight on the board while kiting than when on the hill. This will prevent you from sinking all of your weight into the edge, thus making a large board feel even bigger and harder to control.
Personal experience has shown me that the above is not really an issue, at least not for me. At 220lbs, I have never had a problem with edge hook up even on rough ice. My theory for my boards being adequately sized/over sized is that conditions while snowkiting often dictate “oversized” as a necessity. Deep snow is much more common in snowkiting than almost any other type of snowboarding except exclusive back county snowboarding. Though you will have many packed/icy days while snowkiting, you will encounter the deep and soft stuff somewhere on almost every snowkite outing. If you encounter this with too small of a board for your weight in too light of wind, you will get stuck. You may even find yourself avoiding anything soft with a small board. A larger board will let you get through powder much more easily. Once you start jumping, you will want to be comfortable in the soft stuff because it IS the best place to land, regardless of whether it is a good or bad landing.
Up sizing the board also has an advantage in that you can typically gain a higher sidecut radius. This should make the board more comfortable to ride in a straight line as the edge will be straighter. On the hill this will mean you cannot carve as tight a radius with a “set” edge. But a bigger radius will be faster and should give you more excitement on the hill, much like an alpine board.
For the binding argument, see:
http://www.lakawa.com/lakawa-chat-f1/wh ... 14089.html